Why the Azores Are the New Iceland

A few years ago, Iceland was the discovery of the decade: geysers, northern lights, dramatic volcanic landscapes. Then came the crowds, and with them rising prices and inflated expectations. Those seeking the original sense of wonder that Iceland once inspired should look to the Atlantic – but further south. The Azores, a Portuguese archipelago some 1,500 kilometres off the European coast, offer much of what made Iceland famous – with considerably more peace and quiet.

São Miguel, the largest of the nine islands, is the centrepiece. From above it looks like an emerald in the ocean: deep green hills, crater lakes in the deepest blue and green, steaming vents along the roads. In Furnas, a small valley in the east of the island, thermal springs bubble just below the surface. At the bottom of the Caldeirão lake, pots of stew are traditionally buried underground – the so-called Cozido das Furnas slow-cooks there for hours in geothermal steam, making it one of the most extraordinary dishes in European cuisine. In the evenings, locals soak in the mineral-rich outdoor pools at the Terra Nostra thermal baths, surrounded by a magnificent botanical garden dating from the 18th century.

What made Iceland famous for whale watching, the Azores deliver on an even grander scale. Off São Miguel, major migration routes of blue whales, sperm whales and several dolphin species intersect. The season runs from April to October, with May and June being the best months. Unlike some overcrowded whale-watching destinations, Azorean operators use small boats and strict distance rules – the animals are barely disturbed, and the sightings are unforgettable. Vigia lookout posts – manned watchtowers from the former whaling industry – are now used by spotters who radio coordinates to the boats below.

Walkers will find on São Miguel a network of trails for every level – from gentle strolls around the Sete Cidades crater, whose twin lake glows in blue and green, to demanding coastal walks in the east of the island. Unlike Iceland, the paths are rarely crowded. On a Tuesday in September you can walk for hours without encountering another soul. The trails are well marked, the infrastructure solid, and prices for accommodation and restaurants are modest compared to Iceland.

The most astonishing thing about the Azores is the contrast: black lava fields where hydrangeas bloom in extravagant violet; cows on lush green with the Atlantic behind them; a fishing village that seems frozen in the 1970s, and twenty kilometres away a modern spa hotel with sea views. The Azores are not Iceland – they are something entirely their own. Those who come now arrive early enough to feel it.

What You Should Know

• 01Best travel time May to October: The Azores are habitable year-round, but summer and early autumn offer the most reliable weather windows. May and June are ideal – fewer visitors, green landscapes, active whale season.
• 02Book whale watching early: The best operators fill up quickly. Small boats with a maximum of ten people offer the most authentic experience. Several operators offer money-back guarantees if no whales are sighted – which rarely happens.
• 03Don't miss Cozido das Furnas: The stew cooked underground is a must. Restaurants around the Parque Terra Nostra serve it daily – booking is recommended, the dish has cult status.
• 04Direct flights from Frankfurt: Azores Airlines and TAP fly São Miguel directly. The flight time is around three hours – comparable to a flight to Athens, but with far less competition at the destination.